The female gaze is once again the protagonist in ‘Do not stand at her grave and weep.” A body of work that examines a matriarchal family, combined with the soft femininity and subversive beauty that holds presence in death. The collection explores the relationship between Grandmother, Mother and Daughter in the form of Film/TV-inspired costumes for a ’Victorian Ghost Family that lived and died on the South Coast of England’ – the unintentional tagline that has accompanied my designs since September.
Delicate domestic machine knit and vintage lace features heavily in the environmentally-conscious garments, alongside natural wools and cotton, and deadstock linings. This was vital to the integrity of the collection as it takes heavy inspiration from the beauty of the natural world, both now and in the late 1800s. These delicate, sheer fabrics were also essential in portraying a ghostly and melancholy feeling throughout.
Inspired by the photography of Julia Margaret Cameron, The garments were photographed on the beach with members of my own family and have been carefully crafted into not only a lookbook, but a Film Poster and Stills. Immersing the viewer in the world of ‘The Family’ – a concept film which would take a close look into the complexities of feminine relationships throughout generations. Set in the 1880s, it draws similarities with today’s patriarchal society and relies heavily on sensitive visuals and semiotic costumes.
“do not stand at her grave and weep’